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Program: Pobeda Peak 7439m
The most northern 7000 m. Peak of our planet is Pobeda peak (7439 m). The gigantic wall of the peak rises above Zvezdochka glacier on 3000 m. high and takes the space between the passes of Chon-Teren (5488m.) and Dikiy (5200m.) - more than 10 km. The whole massive is a huge snow-ice wall, whose crest lone is above 7439 m. Severe weather conditions, low air temperature, high level of precipitation allows to compare climbing Pobeda's peak with ascent of Hymalaian giants. The most complicated routes go on the northern wall to the eastern Pobeda. We offer the ascent of the most popular route which goes from Dikiy pass (5200m.) across Vazha Pschavela peak (6918m.)
Plan of arriving to the Base Camp and tactic of ascent.
- Arrive to Bishkek
- Transfer from Bishkek to Karakol (400km.) situated on the Shore of Issyk-Kul Lake.
- Transfer from Karakol over Chon-Ashu pass (3822m.) to Maida-Adyr staging camp (2540m.)
- Helicopter flight to the Base Camp on the Southern Inylchek glacier. The camp is situated near the slopes of Treglavy peak on 4000 m above sea level.
- Acclimatizing outgoing to the route and organization of high-altitude camps. Trip along Zvezdochka glacier (15km) to the northern wall and organization of the camp 1.
- Ascent along the icefall to Dikiy Pass (5200 m). Organization of the camp 2. Spending night there.
- Ascent along the northern crest of Vazha Pshavela peak up to 5800m and organization of the camp 3.Spending night there.
- Acclimatizing ascent to 6000m.Descent and spending night in camp 3.
- Descent along the route of ascent to the Base Camp.
- Day of rest and preparation for the ascent.
- Start of ascent. During 2 days ascent to the camp 3.
- Ascent along the northern crest up to 6200m. Organization of the camp 4. Spending night there.
- Ascent of Vazha Pshavela peak (6900m). Organization of the camp 5.
- Ascent along the western crest up to 7200m. Camp 6.
- Ascent of the peak and descent to the camp 6.
- Descent along the route of ascent to the camp 3.
- Descent to the Base Camp on the Southern Inylchek glacier.
- Flight from the Base Camp to Maida Adyr staging camp and return by car to Bishkek.
The whole program from the day of arriving to the return takes 25 days taking into account reserve days in case of the bad weather.
Seasons: 10 of July - 20 of August
The size of the group is not limited.
Conditions:
Members carry out ascents and choose tactic for ascent them-selves. They have their own outfit, which is necessary for ascent.
Service:
All transfers from Bishkek to the base camp and back, accommodations in hotels, radio connection, medical aid, full board, all formality.
For additional payment:
Helicopter flight from Issyk-Kul lake to Maida-Adyr , helicopter sightseeing-flight over the peaks, helicopter transfer to the route, preparing of the route by guides, accompaniment by guides, helicopter flight to the lower camp for rest and other services.
Note:
All necessary food (bread, butter, sugar and others) is provided by our organization, but it is desirable to have special high-altitude food.
Pobeda and Khan - Tengry peaks region description
Northern and Southern Inylchek glaciers are situated in the highest part of Kyrgyzstan that is called Muztag. This is place of permafrost great glaciers and high peaks.
Four ranges form Muztag region: Sarydzhas range, Tengry-Tag range, Kokshaal-Too range and Meridionalny range. Southern Inylchek is the second biggest glacier in post soviet republics. Its length is 62 km and its width is 3,5 km, the thickness of ice is more than 200 m. There are two 7000 m. peaks - Pobeda peak (7439m) and Khan-Tengry peak (7000m) and about 30 peaks of more than 6000 m. and also many peaks of 4000 - 5000 m. with different levels of difficulty, from simple to sheer walls in the upper reaches of this glacier; among them are peaks, which nobody has ever climbed.
The famous Merzbacher Lake is situated at the confluence of the Northern and the Southern Inylchek glaciers. The lake is very interesting, because once in a year it breaks out into Inylchek River, in the first half of April. The mechanism of breaking out is still unexplored.
Climate conditions there are rather severe. The Base Camp is situated on 4000 m. above the sea level, and more then 50 % of its territory is covered with eternal snow. At daytime the temperature in the fine weather is up to +7 - 15 C. At night the temperature is usually below 0 C.
Above 5000m climate is mostly Arctic. The weather in this region is extremely unstable with frequent snowfalls, that don t allow to ascent to Khan-Tengry and Pobeda peaks in a bad weather. The Base Camp is situated on the sidelong moraine of the Southern Inylchek glacier near the slopes of Treglvy peak. There are double camping, kitchen, canteen and sauna in the camp and that allows making life of expedition comfortable.
Contact Us: e-mail d-sasha@elcat.kg
237, Bakinskaya str., 720015, Bishkek, Kyrgyzstan, Tel./Fax.:+996(312) 679-975, 670-764
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